ARE YOU one of those dedicated bowlers who loves the game but can't afford the equipment arsenal needed to be totally competitive? Even more, are you bewildered and somewhat disenchanted when considering this aspect of the game? Regretfully, the failure of the ABC and WIBC to address the problem fully in the past has, indeed, made the selection of a bowling ball a somewhat befuddling task. Here are some tips and advice to help you in that pursuit.

• First and most important, find a reputable and well-schooled ball-driller. The diversity permitted under today's broad parameters in this area has created a horde of theories by self-annointed "gurus" who profess nothing less than divine powers when it comes to the selection and drilling of a bowling ball. I agree with Hall of Famer Jim Schroeder, who once said, "Too many ball drillers have come to view their hypothetical theories and practices as the ultimate and sole approach, this at the expense and consternation of the customer."

• Be sure to initiate a strong line of communication with your chosen ball-driller. Your hand is like a fingerprint; there are no two alike. Therefore, only by your putting your hand in the ball and describing in detail what you feel and sense can a reputable ball driller properly assess what adjustments are required.

• Even if you league-bowl once a week in a local center, you should carry two bowling balls. Ball No. 1 should not only be drilled to best conform to your hand, but its surface should also be compatible with the center's lane finish. Molecular compatability between the surfaces of the ball and lane is very important, so let your ball-driller advise you on the ball surface that's best for your center. Ball No. 2 should be a hard-surfaced ball to use when the lanes hook excessively. Further, your No. 1 ball should be a two-piece ball, which better allows the mass to be moved around in relation to the track in order to effect a specific ball reaction. The weight blocks in a two-piece ball range from 3 1Ú2 to 8 pounds. Together with unique configurations, this substantial weight lends itself to mass manipulation and balancing.

• Most likely, your No. 1 ball will have a urethane surface because it provides more in the way of porosity (abrasiveness). Urethane balls tend to soak up the oil. For this reason, you should "wash" your ball (remove the oil) from time to time to maintain its effectiveness. Your ball driller can advice you on the best way to do this, which depends on the ball model.

• Don't get wrapped up with static balance concerns. By staying within legal limits, the distribution of static weight in a ball does little to override the factors of surface characteristics and dynamic imbalancing. In fact, the wide range of ball surfaces developed over recent years have dwarfed the significance of static balance even more. In most cases, the "static weighting game" is best approached defensively, in the sense of avoiding certain balance options that might hinder ball reaction after an effective release and execution.

• All other things being equal, the heavier the ball, the more impact it will have on the pins. More significant, the heavier the ball, the more it will resist the force imparted on it by the pins upon impact (Conservation of Momentum). Yet, you will not necessarily bowl your best with the heaviest ball. One maximizes pinfall by developing a ball roll incorporating the greatest amount of pin-carrying inertia (action), while maintaining a high capability for accuracy. In this case, inertia represents all the components of a moving ball that will induce pins to fall: mass, overall speed, rotational velocity, rate of precession and nature of the rotation. Depending on your strength and the conditions at hand, a 16-pound ball might not be your wisest choice. Again, seek the advice of a reputable ball-driller, or instructor.

• When a discussion concerning bowling balls arises today, the hot topic is dynamic imbalancing. With many bowlers, it has become an obsession, like looking for a genie in a bottle. But let's pause to consider that, after the grip, the remaining considerations of a ball can be ranked in this order: 1) overall weight; 2) surface characteristic: and 3) balance. Although the order of importance is clear, one senses a contradiction for these priorities in the attitudes of many bowlers today. Because so much has been written and promulgated about the subject, it might seem to many that balance is the most important issue when it comes to the selection of a bowling ball.

This illogical breakdown of priorities merely reflects the order of uncertainty that many bowlers have about their equipment options. The less one of these areas is "solved" in the mind of a bowler, the more interest it attracts and the more thought it provokes. This is fine, as long as in one's zeal to uncover and apply new technique and information, one does not forego priorities and the more important aspects. Putting it another way, a 150-average bowler should have little concern about how to dynamically balance his or her $200 bowling ball. Even more, this bowler would be better off buying an $80 ball and spending the remaining $120 on lessons from a qualified instructor.

On the other hand, dynamic imbalance is a strong factor at the pro level, when you recognize that the difference between a 205 and a 214 average is the result of scoring a mere 0.8 strikes per game. Said another way, that represents posting four more strikes over a five-game block. Big difference.